Day 3 of Mount Everest Base Camp Tour (Namche Bazaar to Tengboche, Saturday March 21, 2015)

This is another fantastic morning in the Himalaya. The clouds that obscured Namche yesterday afternoon are gone and the weather is cold, but sunny and clear. After breakfast we decide to climb up to the more scenic hike, starting at the ‘Panorama Hotel’ and trek from there to the Everest View Hotel, to Khumjung, down to the river and finally up to Tengboche.

Namche Bazaar, early morning - ready to go!

 

Our first stop is at a nice viewpoint just a couple of metres above Namche. We stop at the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay monument – he summited successfully Mount Everest in 1953 together with Edmund Hillary for the first time and both became legends. The views from here are so spectacular that we hardly can believe our eyes: In front of us lies the entire Khumbu Valley surrounded by beautiful mountains such as Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse - and right in the middle Mount Everest! This is truly one of the best views of my life so far…

 At the first viewpoint above Namche - what a view!

Lhotse, Nuptse and - of course - Mount Everest!

After taking pictures and enjoying the view we start our first ascent to the Panorama Hotel.  This ascent is pretty steep (from 3440m to 3880m) and we need to take our time. On our way we pass the Syangboche airstrip – Nepal’s highest airfield – with infrequent connections to Lukla by helicopter or small airplanes. The views down to Namche and to the snow covered peaks of the Himalaya Range are simply terrific. Now we are already above tree zone but there are still Yaks passing our way.

Climbing up and looking down to Namche:

 

On the panorama trail:  

 

We reach the top and immediately agree that this slightly longer hike was the right decision: The views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Mount Everest are even more impressive from here. There are small clouds surrounding Lhotse and Mount Everest, most likely due to fresh snow that is blown from the glaciers over the top. Wow – there must be very strong winds up there! For this reason  - and because of the still extremely cold temperatures at 8000+ meters – nobody is summiting Mount Everest or Lhotse at the moment. In March the Sherpas usually start to prepare the Everest Base Camp; while in April most of the climbers arrive, staying at the camp some 3-4 weeks to acclimatize and to prepare the ascend. The ‘summiting season’ then usually starts end of April / Early May.    

On the panorama trail - close to Everest View hotel:    

"Smoking" Mout Everest and Lhotse (it's actually snow blown over the peaks):   

The walk from the Panorama Hotel to the Mount Everest Hotel is probably one of the most beautiful hikes on this planet. The path is almost even, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we have such an impressive 360 degree view of the Khumbu Valley and the Great Himalaya Range that we stop almost every minute to take pictures and to enjoy. After 40 minutes we reach the Everest View Hotel – a real ‘hotel’ build by a Japanese investor which seems almost surreal at this remote location. The highlight of the hotel is a big terrace with fantastic views.  When we cross the hotel lobby and walk to the terrace it almost feels like entering a different world as we have become so used to pretty basic lodges and simple restaurants. On the terrace we enjoy our obligatory ‘Lemon Tea’ and take pictures, pictures, pictures and pictures (poor Dorjee J).

The only downside of this wonderful place: From here we can also see the Tengboche Monastery and the long and steep ascent leading to it from the river. We have to descent now from more than 600 meters from 3880 to 3200 and the climb up another 6000 meters to Tengboche (3884m) again! The decent is straightforward and we cross the lovely village of Khumjung. The monastery here is famous for its Yeti skull (if it is true) but we are not allowed to enter. This village is also famous for its school and hospital, both founded by Ed Hillary (one of the first girls that finished school here is now the spouse of the owner of our Lodge in Lukla).
 

The lovale village of Khumjung:   

 

The trail further descends to the Dudh Kosi river where we stop and order lunch. The only issue is – as so often – the toilet. No paper, as always. And as the Nepali know how to make money with tourists I buy one roll and some handkerchiefs for 500 Nepali Rupiah (5 EUR) – this is the standard price here and prices even increase the closer you get to Mount Everest! 

The weather is great but more and more clouds roll in. After crossing another suspension bridge and some water-driven prayer wheels (yes, indeed!) the infamous ascent to Tengboche starts. This is similar to the one to Namche Bazaar yesterday, but we are already above the 3000m line. Thank god I still feel well and do not suffer from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). We climb up step by step and still can’t believe our eyes as we see porters carrying up bricks and entire wooden front doors on their back. Unbelievable – we wouldn’t be able to carry these loads 10 meters on a plain ground and they walk 15-20km a day with this heavy stuff and up to over 4000m or 5000m high passes…   

The main trail to Tengboche:    

Here we need to go: Down to the rive in the back and then uphill to Tengboche:   

Right in the middle of te steep ascent to Tengboche:   

Just two of these unbeliebable porters, carrying heavy wooden loads up to Tengboche:   

The lodge in Tengboche:   

 

It’s a tough ascent but finally we reach the entry gate to Tengboche with its famous gompa. Our lodge is very basic (electricity only for 3 hours / day) and as the clouds roll in it gets pretty cold. The monastery is not very big but impressive – the dark interior leads to a big, golden Buddha. Unfortunately the ceremony just ended and the Monks prepare themselves for – yes – a soccer game! Some young trekkers join them and a turbulent match begins. I haven’t played football for quite some time but now I consider to join, regardless of the elevation (close to 4000m!) and the terrible conditions of the pitch (the easiest way to get injured...). Unfortunately the entire area is soon completely covered with clouds and we need to stop the game as it gets too foggy to play.

Prayer wheels in Tengboche:   

The gompa / monastery in Tengboche:   

Playing soccer with the monks!   

 

Back in the lodge we order our dinner and sit around an old coal oven, discussing our trekking experiences with other trekkers. One guy from Sweden (23 yrs old) is already trekking for weeks – first around the Anapurna, then to the Base Camp (starting in Jiri which is 1500m below Lukla!) and now he considers trekking the “3 passes” if the weather and snow conditions are ok. Crazy!

After dinner we order some “good bye” beers (this is my last day with Dorjee, Randy and Jim!)  and we start to chat with the owner of the lodge (a 76 years old, funny Sherpa). Somehow I can feel the height now – I have a light headache, similar as some years ago at the Titicaca-Lake (which is at the same altitude).  As the lodge closes around 8:30 pm and as we are all tired we decide to go to bed (again) quite early. In my room I quickly check the pictures and videos which I shot today – what a great day; this was by far the best trekking day of my life!

 

 

Day 2 of Mount Everest Base Camp Tour (Phadking to Namche Bazaar, Friday March 20, 2015)

This is unbelievable- we went to bed around 8pm (!!) yesterday and wake up after 6am. More than 10 hours of sleep! The fresh but cold air and the tons of new impressions seem to make us tired. It is quite chilly when getting up. As we don’t have any heating in our rooms and as the outside temperatures are below zero it takes some time to get out of my ‘polar sleeping bag  with silk inlet’ which indeed was a great investment (I already used it in Bolivia when climbing Huayna Potosi so I am somewhat used to it).


Phakding – at an elevation of 2600 metres and slightly below Lukla at 2800 metres – is nothing special but the owners of the Lodge are really great. We get a nice breakfast with coffee and – of course – lemon tea and soon around 7:30 we start our trek to Namche Bazaar. After some clouds yesterday afternoon the sky is clear again. The first 2 hours are wonderful: We trek through pine forests along the Dudh Kos river. Again we have to cross a large suspension bridge and we start to learn the basic rules: Yak trains go first, human porters go second- and tourists go last. This hike is a perfect start – the further we go, the more impressive the mountains are.
On our way to the entrance of teh Mount Everest National Park and Namche:

A large "Yak train" crossing one of the suspension bridges:

 

After 1,5 hours we reach Monjo  where we pass the Mount Everest National Park entrance gate. We need to show our National Park passes again, then we follow a dry river bed until we start to climb up to a spectacular high suspension bridge. From there a super tough and steep ascend starts to Namche Bazaar. This is one of the toughest ascents I know – and it is unbelievable how the local sherpas are able to carry up heavy loads including containers, bricks or even large wooden sticks until Namche. EVERYTHING that is consumed in the upper Himalayan villages needs to be carried up by horses / yaks or porters. Theseporters climb thousands of meters and spend days on the small Himalayan paths until they are able to sell their products. Their main trading hub in the Khumbu Valley is Namche Bazaar (3420m) which we reach after 2 ½ hours of steadily climbing.

The 'high suspension bridge" and the entrance gate to the Mount Everest National Park :
 

 

 

Right before reaching Nachme, we get a first glimpse of Mount Everest! This is truly a great moment – almost ‘eye in eye’ with the world’s highest moment. And let’s be clear – this is why we are here, despite of the fantastic landscape. I can’t get my eyes off of this mountain; out of a sudden Mount Everest is just around the corner…

Here he is - first and still small glimpse of Mount Everest!

After another steep ascend we reach Namche Bazaar at over 3400 metres. This place is famous for its Friday and Saturday market which attracts buyers and sellers from all over the Khumbu region. Close to the market is a "Yak parking lot" that spreads several levels!

Namche Bazaar market and "Yak Parking Lot":

 

Our lodge is quite convenient – but I am too naïve regarding the ‘hot shower’: Despite of the description there is no hot water at my place and I have the coldest shower of my entire life… Anyway; I am up again and we explore the ‘city’, including viewing some Mount Everest movies like ‘Into Thin Air’ which is shown in one of the bars. We still can’t believe it – the world’s highest mountain is just a stone throw away…

Namche offers great views to the surrounding 6000m / 7000m high mountains but today clouds roll in. Tomorrow will be our great day walking towards Tengboche on the ‘Panoramic Route’ and it would be such a pity not seeing anything. Anyway – we have an early Nepali lunch in our Lodge’s restaurant and fall asleep in our (cold) beds around 8am… No partying in Namche; at least not today…

Namche Bazaar  - view from our Lodge and German Bakery (run by a Dutch!!!!):

 

Day 1 of Mount Everest Base Camp Tour (Lukla to Phadking, Thursday March 19, 2015)

Here we go – it is 5am in the morning and we are on our way to the domestic terminal of Kathmandu's Airport. When we arrive it is still dark – and we are part of a huge queue in a provisional hut with dozens of trekkers, all fully equipped with backpacks, poles, hiking boots and looking forward to their Himalayan experience. Somehow (and thanks to Dorjee) we manage our way through the chaos and finally we board the small DHC-6 Twin Otter (Yes, I checked this before :-)) of Yeti Tara Airlines. This is one of the smallest aircrafts I have ever been flying with: We are only 16 passengers in this twin-propeller aircraft specifically designed for short takeoff and landing. Inside the plane we are all in a good mood but also thrilled as we all know (and I didn’t tell anybody of my family about this): We will be flying to the Himalayas and right to the Airport of Lukla which has the reputation for being the scariest and most dangerous airport in the world!

Boarding our small 16 seats propeller aircraft which will take us to the infamous Lukla airport...

Inside the Yeti Tara Air "Twin Otter"...

 

We take off and the entire flight is simply spectacular: The sun is just rising, there are no clouds and we fly along the Great Himalaya Range. Somewhere in front of us is Mount Everest but we are still not able to see it as all local Himalayan flights are visual flights only, following the valleys at a rather low altitude. Out of a sudden we enter a narrow valley and see the single, sloped runway of Lukla airport in front of us: The runway is just 460 meters long (!) and uphill, starting at a major cliff. Landing too early or too late simply means disaster (unfortunately there have been a couple of incidents over the last years). On the other hand – taking into consideration the 30+ flights a day into and out of Lukla this is still the easiest and safest way to reach the Himalaya – still safer than travelling with buses or cars (there are numerous accidents every year - no wonder after our first experiences with the Nepali traffic in Kathmandu...).

Views on our way to Lukla...

 

We land without any problem and reach the aircraft parking position within seconds. The airport is so small that there is just place for 4 aircrafts at the same time. As we step out, the first passengers of the return flight already step in. We pick up our trekking gear, take some shots from the airport and walk to the Paradise Lodge next by. Here we meet our porters for the first time – and here we get used to the ‘Sherpa way of trekking’: Welcoming each other, having a Lemon Tea first and then settling to start the hike…

All good - landed safely at Lukla Airport...
 

The #1 activity in Lukla: Plane spotting at the "world's scariest airport'...

 

Lukla is a quite unimpressive village and we are happy as we get out of it. We sign our hiking passes for the Mount Everest National Park region, present them to the tourist office and finally we are on our way. The first moments of hiking are just a dream: The weather is brilliant and we are surrounded by 6000m high peaks as we walk through green and fertile grounds.

Start in Lukla - ready to go!

All small villages on our way are very well maintained and as we cross the first Yak Train it almost feels like Switzerland, listening to the bells – ok, let’s keep in mind that we are in the Himalaya and that these are Yaks and not cows. We cross our first suspension bridge, have our first tea in a garden near the bridge and master our first ascend. It takes less than 4 hours until we reach Phakding, our first stop.  The Lodge there (Namaste Lodge) is basic, but good (cold water only but a Western style toilet! Yeah!). After a healthy lunch, Randy, Jim and me head for the ‘Liquor Bar’ where we have some beers and discuss life (especially Rock Music of the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s…). What a great, first and also easy trekking day!

Impressions from Day 1:

 

Second Day in Nepal (Kathmandu, Wednesday March 18, 2015)

Today is the first ‘real’ day in Kathmandu. Randy and I still need to buy a couple of small things for our tour and we truly hope that Jim - our third trekking mate – will arrive on time, flying in from New York City via Qatar. After breakfast Randy and I start our tour towards Dunbar Square which is the historical center of Kathmandu. The square is an UNESCO world heritage site and is much more than ‘just’ a square  - it is almost a town of itself. The entire area is breathtaking and so different from the rest of chaotic Kathmandu.  Here, cars and motorcycles are not allowed to drive and the area is covered by dozens of temples, pagodas, stupas and Buddhist prayer bells, statutes and clocks.

Some impressions from Durbar Square, Kathmandu:

 

The highlight is the old Royal Palace (old Tibetan wooden architecture) with the coronation platform of the Nepali Kings and the 9 stories high ‘Kathmandu tower’, overlooking the inner part of the city. Of course, Randy and I climb up this 17th century tower and for the first time we are able to see the city from the top. Kathmandu is situated in a lovely valley and the 9 stories represent the 9 former independent kingdoms and cities which used to occupy the Kathmandu valley (and which are pretty much today part of the city).  At that time, the Kathmandu valley was certainly one of the most powerful areas of the entire Indian subcontinent.

Old Royal Palace in Kathmandu, main inner square with Kathmandu Tower: 

 

At the entry gate to the old Royal Palace in Kathmandu: 

View from Kathmandu tower:

Inside Kathmandu Tower - Randy taking notes for his superb blog (our blogging expert...): 

 

After discovering the 16th century ‘erotic art’ decorations than most of the old temples are famous for (no further details here J), Randy and me walk over to Basantapur Square. Time for lunch! So we climb up to one of the rooftop terraces and have our first Momos (Randy’s favorite – after his and Lana’s holiday in Bhutan).

Basantpur Square and eating Momos at a rooftop terrace:  

 

After lunch we continue our walk and discover a wooden solar mobile charging station right at Durbar Square, sponsored by the UNESCO and the World Bank. Not sure if the Nepali have, more basic other priorities right now... We enter "Freak Street" which was a Hippie paradies in the late 60th and during the 70th; but the glory days of Freak Street have definitely passed ...

Solar Mobile Power Charging Station: 

Randy with Nepali Flag in the background: 

The once hip and grungy 'Freak Street' in Kathmandu: 

 

 

The rest of the day is smooth – some shopping, preparing the backpack and finally welcoming Jim. He arrives just on time WITH his luggage. Now nothing can stop us from our Mount Everest / Himalaya trekking tour starting tomorrow!

Durbar Square on our way back to our hotel in Thamel / Kathmandu: 

Welcome Jim - and ready to go!