This is another fantastic
morning in the Himalaya. The clouds that obscured Namche yesterday afternoon
are gone and the weather is cold, but sunny and clear. After breakfast we
decide to climb up to the more scenic hike, starting at the ‘Panorama Hotel’
and trek from there to the Everest View Hotel, to Khumjung, down to the river
and finally up to Tengboche.
Namche Bazaar, early morning - ready to go!
Our first stop is at a nice
viewpoint just a couple of metres above Namche. We stop at the Sherpa Tenzing
Norgay monument – he summited successfully Mount Everest in 1953 together with
Edmund Hillary for the first time and both became legends. The views from here
are so spectacular that we hardly can believe our eyes: In front of us lies the
entire Khumbu Valley surrounded by beautiful mountains such as Ama Dablam,
Nuptse, Lhotse - and right in the middle Mount Everest! This is truly one of
the best views of my life so far…Namche Bazaar, early morning - ready to go!
At the first viewpoint above Namche - what a view!
Lhotse, Nuptse and - of course - Mount Everest!
After taking pictures and enjoying the view we start our first ascent to the Panorama Hotel. This ascent is pretty steep (from 3440m to 3880m) and we need to take our time. On our way we pass the Syangboche airstrip – Nepal’s highest airfield – with infrequent connections to Lukla by helicopter or small airplanes. The views down to Namche and to the snow covered peaks of the Himalaya Range are simply terrific. Now we are already above tree zone but there are still Yaks passing our way.
Climbing up and looking down to Namche:
We reach the top and immediately
agree that this slightly longer hike was the right decision: The views of Ama
Dablam, Lhotse and Mount Everest are even more impressive from here. There are
small clouds surrounding Lhotse and Mount Everest, most likely due to fresh
snow that is blown from the glaciers over the top. Wow – there must be very
strong winds up there! For this reason -
and because of the still extremely cold temperatures at 8000+ meters – nobody
is summiting Mount Everest or Lhotse at the moment. In March the Sherpas
usually start to prepare the Everest Base Camp; while in April most of the
climbers arrive, staying at the camp some 3-4 weeks to acclimatize and to
prepare the ascend. The ‘summiting season’ then usually starts end of April /
Early May.
On the panorama trail - close to Everest View hotel:
On the panorama trail - close to Everest View hotel:
"Smoking" Mout Everest and Lhotse (it's actually snow blown over the peaks):
The walk from the Panorama Hotel to the Mount Everest Hotel is probably one of the most beautiful hikes on this planet. The path is almost even, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and we have such an impressive 360 degree view of the Khumbu Valley and the Great Himalaya Range that we stop almost every minute to take pictures and to enjoy. After 40 minutes we reach the Everest View Hotel – a real ‘hotel’ build by a Japanese investor which seems almost surreal at this remote location. The highlight of the hotel is a big terrace with fantastic views. When we cross the hotel lobby and walk to the terrace it almost feels like entering a different world as we have become so used to pretty basic lodges and simple restaurants. On the terrace we enjoy our obligatory ‘Lemon Tea’ and take pictures, pictures, pictures and pictures (poor Dorjee J).
The only downside of this
wonderful place: From here we can also see the Tengboche Monastery and the long
and steep ascent leading to it from the river. We have to descent now from more
than 600 meters from 3880 to 3200 and the climb up another 6000 meters to
Tengboche (3884m) again! The decent is straightforward and we cross the lovely
village of Khumjung. The monastery here is famous for its Yeti skull (if it is true)
but we are not allowed to enter. This village is also famous for its school and
hospital, both founded by Ed Hillary (one of the first girls that finished
school here is now the spouse of the owner of our Lodge in Lukla).
The lovale village of Khumjung:
The trail further descends to
the Dudh Kosi river where we stop and order lunch. The only issue is – as so
often – the toilet. No paper, as always. And as the Nepali know how to make
money with tourists I buy one roll and some handkerchiefs for 500 Nepali Rupiah
(5 EUR) – this is the standard price here and
prices even increase the closer you get to Mount Everest!
The weather is great but more
and more clouds roll in. After crossing another suspension bridge and some
water-driven prayer wheels (yes, indeed!) the infamous ascent to Tengboche
starts. This is similar to the one to Namche Bazaar yesterday, but we are
already above the 3000m line. Thank god I still feel well and do not suffer
from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). We climb up step by step and still can’t
believe our eyes as we see porters carrying up bricks and entire wooden front
doors on their back. Unbelievable – we wouldn’t be able to carry these loads 10
meters on a plain ground and they walk 15-20km a day with this heavy stuff and
up to over 4000m or 5000m high passes…
The main trail to Tengboche:
Here we need to go: Down to the rive in the back and then uphill to Tengboche:
Right in the middle of te steep ascent to Tengboche:
Just two of these unbeliebable porters, carrying heavy wooden loads up to Tengboche:
The lodge in Tengboche:
It’s a tough ascent but finally
we reach the entry gate to Tengboche with its famous gompa. Our lodge is very
basic (electricity only for 3 hours / day) and as the clouds roll in it gets
pretty cold. The monastery is not very big but impressive – the dark interior
leads to a big, golden Buddha. Unfortunately the ceremony just ended and the
Monks prepare themselves for – yes – a soccer game! Some young trekkers join
them and a turbulent match begins. I haven’t played football for quite some
time but now I consider to join, regardless of the elevation (close to 4000m!)
and the terrible conditions of the pitch (the easiest way to get injured...).
Unfortunately the entire area is soon completely covered with clouds and we
need to stop the game as it gets too foggy to play.
The gompa / monastery in Tengboche:
Playing soccer with the monks!
Back in the lodge we order our
dinner and sit around an old coal oven, discussing our trekking experiences
with other trekkers. One guy from Sweden (23 yrs old) is already trekking for
weeks – first around the Anapurna, then to the Base Camp (starting in Jiri
which is 1500m below Lukla!) and now he considers trekking the “3 passes” if
the weather and snow conditions are ok. Crazy!
After dinner we order some “good
bye” beers (this is my last day with Dorjee, Randy and Jim!) and we start to chat with the owner of the
lodge (a 76 years old, funny Sherpa). Somehow I can feel the height now – I
have a light headache, similar as some years ago at the Titicaca-Lake (which is
at the same altitude). As the lodge
closes around 8:30 pm and as we are all tired we decide to go to bed (again)
quite early. In my room I quickly check the pictures and videos which I shot
today – what a great day; this was by far the best trekking day of my life!
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